Review: I tried Italian vodka raved about for 'no gimmicks' and it reminded me of Russian secret

Since the party days of my 20s, I haven’t been one for knocking back vodka shots but rather sipping it in a Martini. There’s only one time when I realised how good vodka can be neat and that was decades ago during a holiday to Russia from Moscow to Saint Petersburg. Almost as pure as water but with a warming kick, the bar owner handing out the shots, chuckling as he revealed Russia’s secret. “Smirnoff??” he gaffawed, when we told him what vodka we have back home. Wrinkling his nose as if he wouldn’t touch it with a barge pole, he added proudly: “We keep all the good stuff for ourselves here in Russia.” Yet tasting the Italian premium vodka Altamura. which has just launched in the UK, it took me back to that fine taste in Russia and how vodka is meant to be. Altamura Distilleries is based in the beautiful Italian region of Puglia that will ring a bell with many holidaymakers to southern Italy. There’s a famous bread down there that is the only one of its kind to get protected status - the Pane di Altamura. This vodka has been inspired by that and uses the same flavoursome durum wheat from that sun-kissed region for this drink. It’s got 43% alcohol content and is 86 proof yet it’s smooth and isn’t harsh on the palate. There’s an attractive summery bottle in pastel shades with a lion on the front. It’s likely to become more recognised in the UK now that it has started to become available from a range of websites including £35 on the Whisky Exchange here to £43 on Amazon here. There’s no sharp after-taste, just a lovely warming sensation that comes from it being a good quality product. It’s smooth and creamy, which isn’t something normally associated with vodka in this country. While the owners talk about it having subtle aniseed, pepper and lemon zest flavours coming from the Altamura wheat and Italian landscape, my tongue wasn’t sensitive enough to pick all those up but there was an ever so slight sweet edge to it and there is a lovely aroma. Sniffing at my glass, it has the aromatic botanical smell that reminded me of gin. Suggestions are to also use it in simple cocktails so its flavour isn’t hidden. Something like an Altamura Martini, made up of 60ml Altamura Vodka with 20ml of Carpano Dry Vermouth and two dashes of orange bitters. I can see how that would be lovely and refreshing to enjoy its flavour. Those enjoying it leaving rave reviews online have talked about how they haven’t got round to using it in cocktails yet as it is so good on its own, how it would have been drunk originally. One Amazon shopped noted: “Flavourwise it has a very slight sweetness to it that means it's really quite palatable even when taken neat,” adding: “It keeps the typical vodka neutrality you'd expect - there's no gimmick flavour distractions to it.” Another gave it five stars adding: “It's easy to forget that vodka was originally designed to be consumed on its own. We've all become accustomed to it just being a mixer for other things these days. There are lots of inferior or very average vodkas out there that are just purchased to make cocktails, where it's pure, unadorned taste isn't all that important. This Altamura vodka is a good reminder of how good a vodka can be as a drink in its own right.” Italy may be more famous for its wine and especially Prosecco but this premium vodka shows it has much more to offer and even giving the Russians a run for their money. Maybe now the best vodka isn’t only being kept within the Soviet border after all? Altamura Vodka is now available in the UK at a range of online stores. They include £35 at the Whisky Exchange here and £43 on Amazon here.